Last spring and again this fall, I was asked to participate in a sustainable design exercise for professor Arti Sandhu’s fashion design class at Columbia College Chicago. Each semester the students came to visit Pivot’s storefront to investigate the various designers’ works and learn more about eco-fashion. After their visit Arti presented the classes with an assignment to create their own garment following principles of sustainability.

This fall the assignment was based on the concept of creating a no waste garment. Students were charged with the task of creating a functional garment by developing a method of pattern making/draping/fabric treatment that did not create fabric waste, or by recycling waste or discarded materials to create a new garment. The process must also be a repeatable one so that multiples could be made in a limited run or mass production. Students were instructed to work with clear thematic or aesthetic direction as well.

During this unit, Arti introduces the students to several concepts of sustainable fashion design including various pattern-making and draping methods. One of her main goals is to encourage the class to look beyond eco-friendly fabrics and deeper into production and design practices. Hopefully the young designers can employ these learned practices in the future repeatedly.

I was invited to visit the class earlier this month to see their final garment presentations. Each of the 13 designs impressed me on various levels. Many of the students explored pattern-making methods that were new and challenging to them. I enjoyed hearing how each began with their own inspirations–from quilting to medieval period patterns.

Arti tells me (referencing Timo Rissanen) around 15% waste is typically created when making a garment. And she points out that does not consider the 100% waste that is generated when a clothing piece is discarded. Eco-fashion is most outwardly focused on organic fabrics, low-impact or natural dyes and ethical labor. All important aspects. But this assignment was a fantastic reminder in the role no waste production needs to play in sustainable fashion–perhaps it is the most important facet of the process?

Below are descriptions and comments on the four student works featured above:

Top left, Geo Red/Blue Dress by Lizz Basinger: Lizz was inspired by quilting to begin her process. She cut her pattern from two squares and had virtually zero waste. This piece looks beautiful in person and could easily be worn right off the mannequin.

Top right, Triangles Drawstring Top by Megan Honigmann: Megan constructed this top from 54 triangles. Their are drawstring ties inside the garment that allow you to pull it in or let it out to form a particular size or shape. Very exciting piece to examine.

Bottom left, Sentimental Shirt by Heather Albert: Heather decided to take a piece that epitomizes disposable fashion (a ubiquitous Forever 21  dress) and another piece that held sentimental value to her (a boyfriend’s shirt) and combine them. The idea was to create a piece that you would feel attached to and want to keep forever. While there was more waste in this piece than was desired, I felt that the concept was strong in terms of the re-fashioning trend.

Bottom right, Recycled Leggings Tunic by Shareefa Flowers: Shareefa took two pairs of out-dated thrift store leggings and created a versatile, modern tunic. The zipper is functional, however that was an added material. You could easily imagine this piece walking down the street on a million girls right now.

Looking Forward category: This is the first entry in the blog’s new “Looking Forward” category. I plan to explore other student works, promising developments in sustainable design and more in these posts.